Brake Rotor

Brake Pads and Rotors at the Tire Rack, Customize Your Brake System

Thursday, February 18, 2010 by Chad Hocker

Ever thought to buy brake pads and rotors online? With Tire Rack you can buy brake pads and brake rotors of your choice shipped to you, or your installer. Tire Rack has brake components to fit your vehicle broken down into four performance categories to help with the selection process.

About a year ago, I noticed my Chevy Impala's brake system was not performing like I remembered. The Impala is used to get me back and forth to work in an efficient manor. All I needed was an Original Equipment replacement level brake product. I selected the Akebono ProACT Ceramic Brake Pads from the Premium Brake Pad category. I always like to use the products Tire Rack carries to see for myself how they work in the field, so I made the purchase and got to work updating the Impala with my new Akebono ProACT Ceramic Pads.

The Akebono ProAct Ceramic Pads have met my expectations. They work well in rain and dry conditions and do not make a lot of dust. One thing I did notice during winter driving is the Akebono ProAct Ceramic Pads do have a little more initial bite as the front wheels have locked up a few more times than last winter with my O.E. brake pads (no ABS on the Impala). No worries; a small change to my braking style and I'm happy with the overall performance of the brake system on

my car.

Not to forget the brake rotors, as its always a great time to replace brake rotors and brake pads at the same time. The Centric Premium Rotor is a great Original Equipment replacement rotor. One thing I really like about the Centric Premium Rotor is the Electrocoating (E-coating) black finish. The finish really makes the rotors look sharp especially if you have a wheel that shows the rotors or, have a winter wheel that shows the rotor more than the summer wheels.

Check to see which rotors or brake pads work best for your car at Tire Rack. Tire Rack has many brake system options to chose from. I just wanted something like the Original Equipment brake system. You may want to step it up for some additional performance. Tire Rack can offer you the custom brake pad and rotor package to meet your needs.

If you need to replace brake rotors, consider Cryo-Stop.

Tuesday, February 9, 2010 by Tire Rack Team

Like all of the brake components we carry, Cryo-Stop Premium Rotors blend quality with innovation. We're particular when it comes time to replace brake rotors, and we're sure you are, too. So check out the ways Cryo-Stop's manufacturing process makes their rotors ones to consider.

Cryo-Stop rotors feature an electrostatically applied finish (an "E-coating") that covers every last bit of the rotor—which is something typical spray-on finishes can't necessarily claim.

So what's the advantage? Long lasting corrosion protection. And we do mean long lasting. The E-coating is actually formulated to withstand over 400 hours of saltwater exposure without rusting.

They are also cryogenically treated, which means they're cooled to -300 degrees F and then slowly brought back to room temperature. This process positively affects the metal to a point where it'll last up to three times as long as untreated rotors.

Learn more about Cryogenics, then search for brake rotors.

Brembo Brake Rotors

Monday, January 11, 2010 by Tire Rack Team

Brakes can only withstand so much slamming. As with all good things, they must come to an end. But what many drivers don't realize: As brake pads wear out, the brake rotors do, too.

Brembo is known throughout the industry for their racing and race-inspired high performance braking systems. Over 26 million Brembo brake rotors are manufactured every year. While some of those brake rotors become Original Equipment, many of them are purchased as replacement options on vehicles just like yours.

Brembo OE Replacement Brake Rotors are designed to meet or exceed any standards previously set by your vehicle's O.E. rotors.

In addition, Brembo features a number of brake rotors that upgrade performance levels, too. Choose from one- or two-piece cast rotors that are machined to exact tolerances, electronically balanced, and highly inspected to meet strict Brembo (and industry) standards.

A simple search produces a compatible list.

OEM Rotors: What to know when it's time for something new.

Monday, November 16, 2009 by Tire Rack Team

When it comes to OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) rotors, you're either ready to simply replace what's currently on your vehicle or are interested in a performance upgrade.

Brake rotors momentarily absorb heat produced during rapid or repeated stops. This means, of course, that they'll eventually wear out. (Read more.) And on the other hand, many wheels feature an open design that exposes brake components. As a contributing factor to your vehicle's overall performance and appearance, many OEM brakes just don't cut it.

And that's where we come in.

Tire Rack has a full range of brake rotors for you to choose from. We've got OEM replacement rotors and upgrade options in slotted, dimpled and drilled designs from premium brands like Akebono, ATE, Brembo, Hawk and more. Shop by vehicle and we'll make a few recommendations—we'll even help you find an installer.

Before you buy brake pads, you'll want to read this.

Tuesday, November 10, 2009 by Tire Rack Team

Brakes are a fairly important component of your vehicle. As such, they should always be installed by a professional mechanic. Incorrect installation compromises performance and, of course, safety. That's why, when you buy brake pads from Tire Rack, we take the time to recommend an installer.

So, how do you know when brakes need to be replaced?

Disc brake pads and rotors wear with use, so you should keep a close eye on them. Brake pads should be replaced when there is 1/8" to 3/16" of friction material left on the steel backing plate. Brake rotors should be replaced before they reach the "Worn Rotor Minimum Thickness" limit, which can be found on the edge of the brake disc.

This, though, is different if you're replacing brake pads used for racing. Read all about it in "Brake Pad or Rotor Inspection and Replacement." It's just one of many articles in our Brakes tech library.

Need to replace brake rotors?

Tuesday, September 29, 2009 by Tire Rack Team

At Tire Rack, we make it really easy to replace brake rotors. All you have to do is search for break components by vehicle. When you do, you'll only see the brake rotors, pads or complete brake systems with that are right for your vehicle—we want you to get the right fit.

Or, you can search by brand. Just a few of our top sellers include:

• ATE
• DBA
• Power Slot

And once you purchase new brake rotors, we'll recommend an installer.

Confused? We've got a library full of brake tech articles. Start at the beginning and learn the science of breaking. We'll dissect all the basics for you, then outline some info on brake components and fit.

Disc Brake Challenge Part IV: Installing The Hawk HPS Brake Pads And Calipers

Saturday, August 8, 2009 by David Horvath

With the rotors and hubs checked for excessive run-out, it's time for Samuel to move on to the brake pads. The set we selected for this vehicle are the Hawk HPS Performance Brake pads. We have had these on previous family vehicles and even my wife noticed the difference. She specifically requested these pads for the van.

The Hawk HPS pads feature a Ferro Carbon compound that give you nice initial bite, a high level of friction when hot or cold, built in shims, and a smooth, firm, pedal feel.

Even before the caliper started binding, she complained that the previous brakes felt "soft or mushy" and that was when the brakes were new. Installing the Hawk HPS pads has vastly improved the feel and performance of the brakes.

After this brake job, she says she feels a lot safer and more secure with this specific rotor and pad setup.

I'd also like to point out, I personally selected and purchased the pads, rotors, and fluid for this brake job out of my own pocket. These items were not provided by the manufacturers as samples etc...

Step 1: Double And Triple Check the Pads

Samuel pulled the pads out of the box and carefully inspected them again to make sure they were the correct size, shape and model. These come nicely packaged with the installation instructions and burnishing bed-in) procedures right on the box. That's a nice touch for sure!

The shims on these pads are actually riveted to the back of the backing plate so they are secure and won't slide around. They also look to be a lot larger than the O.E. shims. We later found them to be very quiet even during the bed in procedure. There wasn't a hint of noise when braking. They also have the factory style wear indicators on the inboard pads. These were a perfect match for the O.E. calipers.

Step 2: Replacing Clips And Loading The Hawk HPS Pads

Samuel then replaced the small, steel noise elimination clips on the caliper brackets with new ones. These came with the caliper hardware kit we purchased at a local parts store (the same kit that had the caliper pin bushings and boots).

They appeared to be in good shape but these small clips should always be replaced. They will help eliminate vibrations and noise and they are inexpensive parts. Brakes develop a lot of heat and these small steel parts will fatigue as they get old. Replacing these small metal clips and pins is cheap insurance against noise issues.

With the new clips in place, Samuel then loaded the new pads into the caliper bracket and checked the clearances by sliding the assembly into position over the ATE brake rotor.

Make sure you don't get any grease or other contamination on the brake pads as you handle them. Any contamination on the face of the pads can interfere with the bed-in process.

Step 3: Bolting Up The Caliper Bracket

The pad and bracket clearance checked out so he inserted the caliper bracket bolts and snugged them by hand being careful not to cross thread them. The manual also recommended lightly coating the bolt threads with medium strength thread lock compound which he applied before installing them.

Once they were snug, he torqued the bolts using a Gorilla Hand Torque Wrench to the specific torque setting listed the vehicle shop manual.

Always follow the proper torque specs and instructions in your shop manual! Failure to do so can lead to brake damage or failure! Don't take chances with your brakes.

Step 4: Prepping The Caliper

The brake caliper piston needed to be retracted so it would fit over the new brake pads and rotors.

Check your vehicle's shop manual for details on the proper procedure for your calipers.

Some pistons (typically on rear calipers) need to be twisted back into the caliper. Others, like the front calipers on our Grand Caravan simply push back in place.

To handle this task, Samuel used his great-grandfather's trusty , rusty c-clamp.

Something tells me this may have made its way home in grand dad's lunch box when he was still working at Studebaker.

It's a good idea to siphon some of the brake fluid out of the master cylinder before you do this. That way it won't overflow into your engine compartment as the fluid is forced back up the lines. Also note the caliper is still supported by the spring to make sure there is no tension on the brake line.

Step 5: Installing The Caliper

With the piston retracted, the caliper slides right over the pads and rotor.

Again, Samuel coated the caliper mounting bolts with thread lock compound and snugged them up by hand. Then he torqued them to the specified torque setting in the shop manual.

Step 6: Repeat The Same Procedures On The Other Side

With the caliper on, he removed the wheel nuts and the extra washers from the hub and rotor. The rotor would stay in place as he moved on to the other side of the van.

The other side went a little quicker since the rotor wasn't overheated and fused to the hub. Again, he changed gloves frequently to keep the new pads and rotors free of any contamination as he worked. He was then ready to start bleeding the brake lines in our final installment:

Disc Brake Challenge Part V: Bleeding The Brakes And Bedding-In The Pads

Disc Brake Challenge Part III: Removing and Replacing the Brake Rotors

Thursday, August 6, 2009 by David Horvath

With the worn out brake pads off and the calipers checked and repaired, it was time for Samuel to move on to the brake rotors.

Step 1: Removing The Old Brake Rotor

This looks simple enough right? There are no stud clips so the brake rotor is just resting on the nose of the axle hub ready to be lifted off. Well, not quite, as Samuel soon discovered...

Normally there will be some corrosion on the hub and the rotor hat. That's to be expected.

A little tap on the back with a hammer or rubber mallet will usually knock the rotor loose but that wasn't to be this time.

The first rotor came right off the nose without any issues. After about 5 minutes of pounding and rotating on the driver's side rotor he found it wouldn't budge.

He next tried some PB Blaster spray on the rotor. That didn't work either. It was really fused to the hub. It was the time to pull out the heavy artillery.

I had him put on some safety goggles and I got out the largest 3-jaw puller I had in the tool box. This is not the greatest idea since it's hard on the wheel bearings but we didn't have much choice. It just wouldn't break loose using normal means.

After a few quick turns of the wrench it finally broke loose from the hub with a huge BANG!

The driver's side overheated severely due to the sticking caliper and apparently cooked off the anti-seize compound that was originally between the hub and the rotor.

You can see the extent of the damage to the rotor. This was cooked, warped, and the brake pad compound looked like chocolate icing smeared all over the back of the rotor.

Step 2: Cleaning The Hub

Now Samuel moved on to prepping the hub for the new brake rotor. This involved cleaning and checking the run-out on the exposed hub.

A wire brush mounted in a drill makes quick work of cleaning the corrosion off the hub. He sprayed some brake cleaner spray on as well.

Any debris or corrosion between the hub and the brake rotor can cause excessive run-out and vibration issues.

Eye protection is a must here!

Step 3: Checking The Hub Run-Out

This is a step most folks don't bother with but it's important. As long as everything is torn down this far, you might as well make sure the wheel bearings are not shot.

Excessive bearing play can cause vibrations. It can also severely damage the brake rotor and brake pads. This can easily be checked using a dial indicator mounted to the strut tube. The run-out specs and instructions for this procedure will be listed in your vehicle's shop manual.

Step 4: Mounting The New Brake Rotor

Having established that the hub and bearings were okay, Samuel then carefully applied a thin film of anti-seize compound on the surface of the hub. He was careful not to get any on the studs themselves. You never want to put anything on the stud threads. He then mounted the new ATE Premium One brake rotors.

Before doing so, he put on a fresh, clean, pair of gloves to make sure he didn't transfer any grease or anti-seize compound onto the new rotors. Any contamination on the rotor surface can transfer to the new brake pads and keep them from bedding in properly!

The ATE Premium One brake rotors have a nice Meta Cote protective coating on them. The unique pattern of the slots minimizes noise, maintains an even, clean surface on the pads, and eliminates fade during heavy braking. The slots also aid in wet braking conditions.

They are nicely packaged and due to the Meta Cote surface, they are ready to install right out of the box.
rotor

Some rotors are not anti-corrosion plated and will come packed with a thin film of protective oil on them that needs to be cleaned off before installing them.

On those rotors, you will need to clean off the packing oil with brake cleaner spray and a lint-free cloth before installing them. You should only clean off the portion of the brake rotor that will make contact with the brake pads.

The oil can stay on the brake rotor hat and inside the cooling vents (if it's a vented rotor). As the rotor heats up, that will burn off and the resulting residue will help protect the rotor from corrosion. It's just like curing a cast iron skillet. If you clean it off the entire rotor, any exposed area not in contact with the brake pads will rust and turn an ugly orange/rust color very quickly.

Step 5: Checking The Rotor Run-out

The next step is also very important. You want to check the rotor run-out to make sure it wasn't damaged or bent. Excessive run-out will cause brake vibrations and a pulsing in the brake pedal. Samuel attached the rotors to the hubs using three of washers and nuts per rotor.

It's critical to do this check before the rotors are driven on to make sure they are true. Most rotor manufacturer's will not warranty a rotor for warping or run-out issues once they have been driven on.

The typical allowable run-out spec is .004" (.10mm) maximum.

Here Samuel is checking the run-out using the outer edge of the rotor.

rotor run-out

Now that the rotors are checked and ready to go, it's time for him to move on to the next step...

Disc Brake Challenge Part IV: Installing The Hawk HPS Brake Pads And Calipers

Stay tuned...

Disc Brake Challenge Part II

Wednesday, August 5, 2009 by David Horvath

With the parts checked out, it's time to start tearing down the brakes. Refer to your vehicle's shop manual for the proper wrench sizes for your vehicle.

Step 1: Removing the caliper retaining bolts

Samuel started by removing the two bolts attaching the brake caliper to the sliding pins on the caliper bracket. These were pretty tight and required some coaxing.

If the bolts are stubborn, spray some penetrating oil on them and let them sit a few minutes. Once you have the bolts loose, make sure you hold onto the brake caliper so it does not drop off.

Step 2: Removal of the Caliper

Typically the caliper will stick to the caliper bracket assembly. It may take some coaxing with a screwdriver to pry it away. Again, keep one hand on the caliper so it does not fall!

Never allow the caliper to hang loose on the brake line or hose! It can kink or damage the hose!

It will swing away from the bracket and brake pads.

Note how much thinner the inboard pad is. These were past due for replacement.

Step 3: Support the caliper

Once it's loose, you want to support the caliper on a piece of stiff wire or rope. I have an old spring that works great. Samuel just hooked one end in the caliper bolt holes and hooked the other end onto the strut housing. You want to keep the brake line loose so there is no weight on it.

Step 4: Removal, Inspection, and Lubrication of the Bracket/Sliding Pins

For this step, Samuel broke loose the two bolts securing the caliper bracket to the hub assembly. There is one on the bottom shown here and another one at the top. With those bolts removed, the whole bracket comes off.

Note the small rubber boot highlighted by the arrow. This is one of two sliding pins that allow the brake caliper to 'float' freely back and forth to equalize the pressure applied through the brake pads to the brake rotor surfaces. That's why this caliper type is called a Floating Caliper.

He gently popped the rubber boots off and removed the pins from the bracket. He then carefully inspected and cleaned the pins and sockets with brake cleaner spray. The pins should not bind up and they should slide in and out of the socket freely.

He then dried them off and applied some high-temperature brake grease to the pins and re-installed them. This procedure will vary depending on the vehicle and caliper type. Refer to your specific shop manual.

One of our pins had a torn boot on it which allowed dirt and grime to get to the pin and into the grease. This caused the caliper to bind up and it was applying more pressure to the inner pad. We had a caliper pin repair kit handy and I walked Samuel through the replacement of the pin and the boot. Look how thin the inner pad was!

Stay tuned for Disc Brake Challenge Part III: removal and replacement of the rotors!

Brake Job Part 1: The Set Up

Tuesday, August 4, 2009 by David Horvath

Well, my son Samuel finished up the brakes this past Saturday and they are working fine. The rear drum brakes were in good shape so he only had to work on the fronts. The whole process took about two hours from start to finish and he's justifiably proud of himself. I'm going to break this up into a few posts so let's get started!

By the way; Samuel was under close adult supervision during all procedures. He also wore protective eye wear and gloves when required. When working on your vehicle, always refer to a good, vehicle specific, shop manual to review the procedures before you start. Follow all safety procedures in the shop manual and read all of the instructions that come with the parts you are installing.

Step 1: Safety first!

The first step was placing chocks behind the rear tires of the van. These keep the van from rolling backward when it's jacked up in the air. Never jack up a vehicle without chocking the tires. Even a slight movement backward can cause the vehicle to slip off the jack.

Since he was only working on the front brakes, I had him apply the parking brake as well. This locks up the rear brakes which will also help to keep the rear end fixed in position.

The next step is to break the lug nuts loose. You want to do this before you jack up the vehicle. The weight of the vehicle will hold the tire and wheel in place while you are applying force to the nuts. The whole wheel will just spin if you attempt this with the wheel in the air.

Here's Sam using a Gorilla Power Wrench to accomplish this. It's much easier if you are lifting up on the power wrench. You have more leverage that way.

You only need to loosen them enough to get them moving and then snug them lightly back against the wheel. Do this one nut at a time. Don't unthread them all the way yet! You'll do that once you jack up the vehicle.

Step 2: Jacking Up The Vehicle

With the wheel chocks in place behind the rear tires, it's time to jack up the vehicle. Refer to your vehicle's owner's manual or your shop manual for the proper jacking points under the vehicle frame.

Carefully set the jack under the proper point making sure there are no wires or lines that could be pinched or damaged!

Here Sam is using a Tire Rack Aluminum Service Jack to lift up the corner of the van. Note the van is on a nice smooth, level surface.

Step 3: Jack Stands

Another important safety device is a set of jack stands. Make sure they are rated high enough to support the vehicle weight you are working with. These supports go under the frame of the vehicle to support the weight and to give the vehicle a stable connection to the ground.

It's never a good idea to leave the full vehicle weight on the jack. Most jacks are mounted on rollers that could move causing the vehicle to shift as you work on it.

Once the jack stands are in place you can slowly lower the vehicle off the jack and onto the stands. Do this slowly and watch the stands to make sure they don't shift.

They should be sitting flat on the ground. After they are properly seated under the vehicle, the load should not shift easily. I typically move my jack back up to within 1/4" of the frame just as a backup should something shift unexpectedly.

Step 4: Remove Lug Hardware and Wheel/Tire

Now the tire and wheel is up in the air and you can remove the lug nuts or bolts. This is pretty straight forward. The Gorilla Power Wrench comes in Handy for this as well.

If you have aftermarket alloy wheels, you may see centering rings sticking to the hub. Make sure you remove them carefully using a flat blade screwdriver.

Step 5: Look at the parts!

This is the point of no return. Once you start taking the calipers and rotors apart, there's no turning back. Now is the time to carefully inspect your new replacement parts and to compare them to the parts on the vehicle. You don't want to go any further if you don't have the correct parts right?

Samuel will be replacing the pads and rotors with Hawk HPS performance brake pads and ATE Premium One Brake Rotors. He's also going to be replacing the fluid with ATE SL.6 Brake Fluid.

He inspected the parts and checked them against the ones on the van. Everything checked out and they look like the parts on the van. He's ready to move on to our next blog post:

Brake Job Part II: Taking it all apart

Disc brake challenge: easy enough for a 13-year-old???

Friday, July 31, 2009 by David Horvath

Automotive repair, even on newer vehicles is nothing to be afraid of. To prove my point, I'm going to post a series of reports about my son.

He's 13 and he will be performing his first brake job. If he can do it with a few simple hand tools, you can too!

The vehicle in question is our family's 2002 Dodge Grand Caravan SE. Last weekend he replaced a bad ABS sensor lead and this week he will be installing a new set of ATE Premium One brake rotors and a set of Hawk HPS performance brake pads on the front. He will also be flushing the fluid and replacing it with ATE SL.6 Brake fluid.

I'll be standing by, taking photos, and documenting his progress. Stay tuned for the play-by-play in the coming week. Here's a list of some of the items he will be using:

ATE Premium One Slotted Rotors

ATE SL.6 Brake Fluid

Hawk HPS Brake Pads

Tire Rack Aluminum Service Jack

Gorilla Adjustable Torque Wrench

Gorilla Power Wrench

Pull Those Stud Cips!

Friday, July 31, 2009 by David Horvath

One of the most common issues we hear about is wheel vibrations after new tires and aftermarket alloy wheels are installed.

More often than not, the vibrations are caused by little washers attached to the brake rotor or brake drum. These locking washers are called stud clips.

These are found mostly on domestic vehicles produced by GM, Ford, Chrysler, Saturn, and even on some imports like Jaguar.

They seem innocent enough but they need to be removed before installing aftermarket wheels.

During vehicle assembly, these little clips are installed to hold the drum or rotor in place against the hub as the vehicle moves down the assembly line in the factory.

They do a great job of keeping the rotor from falling off before the caliper and brake pads are installed but once the car or truck is assembled, they serve no important function. The clamping force of the wheel and lug hardware is what keeps the assembly together after that point.

Here's what they look like on the hub. They are the small, toothed washers placed around the base of the studs. Notice they are only on one or two of the studs:

They are easy to miss and if they are left on there when you install new alloy wheels, they will cause big problems! Any rust or debris on the surface should also be cleaned off with a wire brush. This rotor surface needs a little bit of prep work before a wheel can be installed on it.

Although they are pretty thin (approx 2-3mm), they will keep the wheel mounting pad from sitting flat on the brake rotor or brake drum. Typically the factory only uses one or two on each hub so the flat mounting pad of the wheel will only make contact with one side of the hub once the lug nuts are torqued. It will feel like the wheel is mounted securely but once you start driving on it, the forces on the wheel from rotating, turning and braking will cause the wheel to rock back and forth on those stud clips.

Imagine trying to stand and balance on a flat metal disc that's sitting on two golf balls. You would have a difficult time staying balanced as you shifted your weight back and forth across the disc wouldn't you? Now you're getting the picture right?

Since the stud clips are normally made from stainless steel, they are harder than the alloy wheel. As the wheel rocks back and forth, the stud clips will quickly dig into the back of the alloy wheel's mounting pad.

The clips actually wear round indents or recesses in the back of the wheel and the resulting gap also creates a space between the lug nuts and the lug seats on the wheel face. The lug nuts are no longer torqued tight against the wheel!

You will soon notice a vibration while you drive the vehicle, especially when you turn or when you apply the brakes. The forces on the wheels change dramatically as you turn or brake and the wheel will rock back and forth violently on the now loose lug nuts and studs.

If allowed to continue, the vibration and rocking back and forth can damage the wheel and the studs. Here's a severe example. You can see the indents from the stud clips highlighted in red, as well as the damage to the lug openings of the wheel highlighted in green. The lug holes are actually elongated and chewed up from the violent vibrations against the studs.

The imprints of the stud clips can be seen at the 9 o-clock and 3 o-clock positions. If driven on long enough, this could cause severe damage and even failure of the studs! Once the lug seats are damaged, the wheel is ruined.

It is critical to remove the clips before installing any aftermarket alloy wheel.

It's a simple process to remove them. You just pry them up with a flat bladed screw driver and cut them off with tin snips or twist them off with a pair of pliers.

This important little step can save you a lot of heartache. It will also save your vehicle and wheels from damage. Here is a handy link for wheel and tire installation. Check it out before you install your new aftermarket wheels.

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Brake Pads and Rotors at the Tire Rack, Customize Your Brake System

If you need to replace brake rotors, consider Cryo-Stop.

Brembo Brake Rotors

OEM Rotors: What to know when it's time for something new.

Before you buy brake pads, you'll want to read this.

Need to replace brake rotors?

Disc Brake Challenge Part IV: Installing The Hawk HPS Brake Pads And Calipers

Disc Brake Challenge Part III: Removing and Replacing the Brake Rotors

Disc Brake Challenge Part II

Brake Job Part 1: The Set Up

Disc brake challenge: easy enough for a 13-year-old???

Pull Those Stud Cips!